Imagining Montmartre Back in the Day

Montmartre, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries was home to many of the most important artists of the day. The impressionists, post impressionists, and cubists like Picasso, Braque, Modigliani, and others flocked here because it was cheap and open minded. Nowadays, it's known visitors for Sacre Coeur, the white cathedral on the hill, the Moulin Rouge, and souvenir shops lining the narrow streets. It's hard to imagine the artists here in their day until you enter the Musee Montmartre. This garden is in the spirit of Renoir, who actually made his home in this building where he painted many works including the well known "Bal du Moulin de la Galette".

Pierre Auguste Renoir, "Bal du Moulin de la Galette", 1876, 52 X 76", oil on canvas

Another of Renoir's most famous works is "The Swing" painted in 1876 in this very garden, and presented at the Impressionist's exhibition of 1877. Believe it or not, it was badly received by the critics, and it was purchased by another artist, Gustave Caillebotte, a friend and patron of the artist. The garden beyond the swing was given over to the cats and only they have access to it.

Montmartre is on a hill overlooking the rest of Paris and before it was annexed to the city of Paris it was a village of winemaking, stone quarries, and gypsum mines. It was poor and the site of some fierce battles during the days of the Commune. These vineyards have been in this location since the Middle Ages, and reportedly produces the most expensive bad wine in Paris. In the photo on the right you can see an orange building which is the site of the Lapin Agile, a favorite spot for the artists.

Here is a photo of the front of the Lapin Agile from 1872. You can see the large painting of the "agile rabbit" on the outside wall. The image of the rabbit was created by Andre Gill.

Another famous gathering place was the Chat Noir (Black Cat). It was billed as a Louis XII style cabaret, opened in 1881 in a renovated post office. The logo of the black cat was the work of Adolphe Willette. I was not clear on what the meaning was though it has some reference back to Gothic times. Chat Noir is known as the first cabaret where people sat at tables, were entertained, and drank alcohol. It was very small, accommodating only 30 people.

The second incarnation of Chat Noir moved to a larger location in 1885 which introduced something new, shadow theatre with piano music to accompany it. An early type of film entertainment. Henri Riviera introduced this theater of silhouettes using zinc plates and colored lights. The figures could be animated.

Learned something new about early film entertainment and got a taste for Montmartre as it may have been when the Impressionists roamed the streets and gave us such beautiful works of art.