Lviv, Lvov, Lemberg (Ukraine)

From the moment we arrived until the moment we left Ukraine we kept saying, "never thought I'd come here or can't believe we are in Ukraine." Another place with multiple names depending on the history and who is talking. Lemberg was the name given by the Germans when they occupied and Austrian Airlines still refers to it that way. Lviv is the common name, and Lvov is the Jewish name.

Lviv is a city in Western Ukraine, that was the capital of Galicia-Ruthenia from 1272-1349, then conquered by Casimir III (the Great), king of Poland and Ruthenium. If you are confused about the Galicia part that's because of those Hapsburgs again, who ruled here starting in the 18th century and named this Galicia to connect it to the Spanish Galicia. Then came the Soviets and the Germans, and Ukraine became independent in 1991 and as you probably know is engaged in conflict with Russia right now. Some evidence of that will be seen in this posting.

How's this for a first impression of Ukraine. Every weekend there is a motorcycle rally in the central square.

If you have been following the cities I've visited so far you would be correct if your impression is that things are looking plainer and a little shabbier in Lviv.

Bank of Galicia, now an ethnographic museum, tells you everything about the architecture and the history. Galicia came into existence in the first partition of Poland in 1772 and thus part of the Habsburg empire. The building combines Renaissance, Baroque, and Classical elements. Next week Art Appreciation will be learning about architecture. You might want to come back to this picture to see if you can pick out the styles. Or once we move to art history you can do it then as architecture reflects many aspects of its time, social as well as political.

Waiting for the bus after work, a site you would not see in many other places. I guess you get used to lining up if you have had to do it for everything.

The Boim Chapel mausoleum built in 1615. Like so much other architecture in this region, it's a combination of styles including northern European Dutch and German style figures and Italian architectural ornaments.

Throughout Europe efforts are underway to clean pollutants and soot that has accumulated for centuries from historical buildings. Not so in Lviv. Some locals say this stays like this because it is known as the black chapel, but it's more likely that the funds are not available. The poster is seeking the release of a Ukrainian filmmaker who was living in Crimea and has been sentenced to 20 years in prison by the Russians. An effort is being made to draw attention to his case in an effort to get him released.

The local fast food is called the vareniki, dumplings with various fillings.

Monument to King Danylo, who ruled in the 13th century and gave the city its name, named after his son Leo (the lion). Those of you who are in the ancient art history class will be looking at equestrian statues, and especially the one of Marcus Aurelius. As you will see the rider is bigger than normal so that he looks proportional on the horse. In this case the king is life-size so in fact looks smaller than he should.

Locals call this monument "the horse" because especially from the front you can hardly even see the rider.

Evidence of the multiple powers that have governed this region can be found everywhere. Here is a house number with the street name as it was when it was part of Poland.

The market square, known as Rynok square was planned and built in the second half of the 13th century and further developed by Casimir in the 14th century. There are fountains that once served as wells for the city at each of the four corners of the square. The buildings that line the square have businesses below and dwellings upstairs in many different styles. The town hall stands in the center.

On the weekends this is a lively gathering place day and night.

The town hall in the center of the market square has been built, rebuilt and added to over the centuries. It's central core dates from the 14th century and the tower was added in the 19th century. The old clock mechanism is still working.

An artist with a sense of humor erected the ladder and titled it "Steps to Heaven."

Lviv hosts a film festival and every year this street gets its name changed. Probably the only one you recognize is Charles Chaplin, the rest are Eastern or Northern European film directors.

This monastery adjacent to the church was closed by the Soviets and abandoned until after WWII when it was reopened as a historical state archive. It remains so today, housing archives from pre Soviet Ukraine. Notice on the painted barrier wall there is a Jewish symbol of the menorah. That's because this is close to the Jewish neighborhood and ghetto, subject of the next post.

As peaceful as Lviv Lvov Lemberg looks, this is a reminder that war is not so very far away. This is an exploded missile brought here from the conflict 1000 miles away. That would be a war going on in Denver from either coast. It reminds one that life goes on though conflict can be very close.