The Rif and the Atlas

Morocco has two mountain ranges that are geographic regions as well as containing distinct cultural traditions. The Rif mountains are 180 miles long, in Northern Morocco extending from Tangier to the Algerian border. Most of the range is along the coast. The highest peak is 8000 ft. tall and there are a few fertile valleys for agriculture and settled by Berbers mostly.

The other range, the Atlas mountains extends 1500 miles across northwestern Africa (Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia) and separates the Atlantic and Mediterranean from the Sahara. It is actually a series of ranges with diverse terrain, climate, and wildlife. Its highest peak is 13,000 feet and it is populated by Berber villages. Moroccans make a distinction between the Lower, Middle, and High Atlas when referring to where people live and in addition to terrain changes it possible to see differences in architecture and culture.

The Rif mountains are home to Berber people mostly, who have lived in this region since prehistoric times.

The Rif mountains get the most rainfall in Morocco and there are numerous dammed rivers. That can also be seen in the Atlas mountains. Deforestation for agriculture has led to soil erosion that has impacted the region since the major industry is agriculture.

The town of Chefchaouen is nestled between two mountains in the Rif. The buildings still retain the white and blue color of the coastal area. The town was founded in 1471 by direct descendants of Mohammed, as a stronghold against the Portuguese. It is considered a holy town with 8 mosques, Sufi zaoulas (centers of brotherhood and education), and their leaders called marabouts.

The blue is repainted every year and was originally only found on homes of Jews, though eventually everyone painted in blue. There is no longer a Jewish community in Chefchaouen.

Center of Chefchaouen with Rif mountains in the background.

Chefchaouen is surrounded by walls that you can see in the distance in this picture. When they were built they were meant to keep people out, now they are useful to keep the town from spreading too far into the countryside.

Heading from Fes into the High Atlas mountains.

Todra Gorge is a series of limestone river canyons carved by rivers. The canyon walls are 1000 feet tall.

The water level in the gorge is dependent on seasonal changes.

The Atlas are a drier climate than the Rif and you find the most vegetation in oases along rivers or where there are springs. Skoura is one such place in the High Atlas Mountains. The oasis is filled with date palms.

The Atlas mountains were and in some ways still are an important caravan route. As the caravans made their way north from Mali and other parts of Africa their dropped date and love pits spurred spectacular growth of date palms and olive trees. These make the backbone of the oases throughout the Atlas mountains.

The Draa Valley and the Draa river (one of the largest) have an oasis that stretches for over 200 miles. Notice how the color of the architecture has changed and it's hard to make out but in between the trees are small plots of cultivation for inhabitants to the town and their animals.

The Atlas mountains are home to much of the Berber population. It is still a mystery where this mixture of peoples came from. They have a distinct language and alphabet. They are mostly Muslim though there are Jews with Berber ancestry.

Notice how the color of the architecture has changed though it is still mostly of mud brick or stone construction.

The Atlas mountains were formed by a combination of volcanic and sedimentary formation. The sedimentary rocks are full of fossils.

The Ounila river valley is one of the lushest. It's also one of the few rivers not dammed so it has reasonable water flow all year round. Notice the irrigation channel running right along the river.

These channels direct the water to the homes and fields of the villages.

As the mountains climb back up from the Sahara the vegetation changes dramatically.

Tallest peak in the Atlas mountains is 13.000 feet has a brushing of snow in the spring.

Road descending back towards the coast to Marrakesh.