Walls and Churches of Lviv

Evidence points to people living in Lviv starting in the 5th century. There was such a succession of conquest that battlements, walls, and towers were erected in an attempt to protect the city. There are many sects of Christianity with formidable churches in Lviv including Roman Catholic, Russian Orthodox, Eastern Orthodox, and Armenian. The Jewish community was also very large. Saving that for another post.

We have been walking on cobblestoned streets since we arrived in Riga. While many cities in Europe have cobblestones in their old city centers, the three cities we visited seem to have them extended beyond the center. Watch the ladies walking these streets in spike heels, you know they have a lot of experience with this sort of thing. The ancient streets and walls of Lviv once again tell us of the long history disrupted by conquest and changes in rulers. The borders of the countries in this region seem to have changed every 50-100 years. What you are looking at is part of the ancient fortifications. The wooden structure on top was added much later.

The arsenal is around the corner from the wall in the last image. It now houses a museum of armaments and a "medieval" restaurant where the patrons eat using their hands. Use your imagination for the menu selections.

The walls give us historical context for a region that has constantly been changing hands and under the control of various "others." In addition to usual suspects of Poland, Russia, and the Hapsburgs there has also been Tatars and Mongols. The street level gives you an idea of how the earlier fortifications were built and rebuilt raising the level every time.

Across the street in the distance you can see a tall building with the wall on the right hand side rougher than the rest. These are remnants of the ramparts behind the city wall and are higher yet than the current street.

The Dormition Church is a Ukrainian Orthodox church in a Renaissance style. It was built 1591-1629 though the belltower was built 1571-1578. A transitional style between the Renaissance and Baroque is Mannerism, and the tower has been described that way. Mannerism elongates and exaggerates elements such as the torso of a body or asymmetrical architecture. Ukrainian Orthodox churches developed under the influence of Constantinople and flourished in Soviet times until 1930. The only Orthodox churches recognized were those emanating from Russia. Under German occupation, the Ukrainian orthodox church gained some freedom and then were suppressed again until independence. This branch of Orthodoxy is tied to the Pope in Rome.

The Bernardine church was built first in the 15th century and then rebuilt in the 17th century in the Dutch and Italian Mannerist/Renaissance style. Since it originally was outside the city center it had its own fortifications, though once it was inside the city itself the fortifications were dismantled in the 19th century. The church managed to stay open during the reign of Joseph II and continued until the Soviets closed it. It reopened in 1991 as an "Eastern" or "Greek" Orthodox church. They believe their bishops are the descendants of Jesus' apostles though they have allegiance to the pope in Rome.

The Armenian community has been present in Lviv since the 14th century. The location of the present Armenian church has seen numerous renovations over the centuries but the significant events were the closure of the church and exile of the community by the Soviets after WWII. The church was reopened in 1997 and is in the process of major renovation paid for by Poland and Ukraine. The active community at present is very small.

Like many Armenian quarters in other places (including Jerusalem) have very closed in spaces and the Armenian community is very private and sticks closely together. One interesting thing about the Armenians in Lviv is that they had a close relationship with the Jewish community. Perhaps they all felt like persecuted people might do better helping each other.

Gravestones as paving stone, not an unusual occurrence in this part of the world.

Jesuit Church of Peter and Paul is a totally Baroque style church from the 17th century. It resembles Il Gesu in Rome. It is in the best condition of all the churches, renovated in 2011 after being used as a warehouse by the Soviets. An interesting fact about this church, is that the Jesuits owned the land in the Jewish quarter where the main synagogue was located and wanted to build on that site. The rabbi persuaded them to seek land elsewhere which they did. More on that in the next post.